L ike all shrines, this one is on a hill, and built into solid rock. Richard Olney saw it first in on an excursion south from his adoptive home in Paris. Olney, whose French Menu Cookbook was recently judged the best cookbook ever by this magazine, immediately knew he had found his proper place on earth. I fell in love. Friends and pilgrims visited and took home with them something of the hillside. Alice Waters, who has run California's most celebrated restaurant, Chez Panisse, for 40 years, came here first in and is still, when she describes it to me, heady with the memory.
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